'05 Burgundy/Bordeaux "Report"
So, with so much fanfare over the 2005 Bordeaux and Burgundy grape growing season, crop, and ensuing wine produced, it begs the question whether it is or will be worth it to make wine investments or even ordinary purchases at the 20-25% price premiums we are sure to face when most wines are released and hit our local stores' shelves (provided the wine has not already been allocated and is actually available to the ordinary buyer). Although that decision should be made on a bottle-by-bottle basis, here are observations and a general opinion/strategy to guide the smart consumer:
OBSERVED: the vintage was great on the whole; in particular, high quality across the majority of appellations and price points is being claimed.
RESULT: buy at the common entry point for non-declassified product (i.e. wine that still is certified by a particular appellation, which means it meets the quality control mechanisms put in place). This strategy will allow you to target $25-30 wines in Bordeaux and Burgundy that will drink wonderfully.
OBSERVED: production levels were far from skimpy. There is plenty of Bourgogne rouge, Bordeaux Superiore, and other 'lesser' classification wine out there for attractive prices.
RESULT: potentially converse to common thinking, avoid these wines. Do not buy '05 Bordeaux or Burgundy in the under $15 price range. The very fact that you are purchasing '05 Bordeaux and/or Burgundy is to experience the unique French expression of 'terroir' and to enjoy a special and fantastic bottle. Although many of these wines will be OK as 2nd or 3rd bottles, these wines will not meet those objectives. Instead, pay $7-10 for a Cotes du Rhone blend, a Spanish Tempranillo or Grenache, or even an overripe, concentrated Australian fruit bomb.
OBSERVED: the most famed regions are pricing futures out the wazoo.
RESULT: even if you can get your hands on Romanée-Conti or Margaux, you'll likely be paying insane amounts. And this purchase will be one you cannot fully enjoy for at least 15 years. Why take the risk that a Parker or other whimsical 'pendulum force' will take the bottom out of your investment with a negative review at some point down the line? The risk is very real when buying at the height of the market (which is where the '05 wine will be based on early reports of both the '06 vintage and '07 growing season). Instead, buy regions that are not as firmly established. In Bordeaux, think St. Estephe or Pessac Léognan. In Burgundy, Cotes du Nuits Villages will deliver fantastic wine.
posted by
FRFTF
on
Sunday July 15, 2007 01:07 PM
2 comments ...
